I hadn't planned on coming here but both the books said it was nice and they were right!
I arrived at about 9pm after a rough bus ride only to get ripped off by the hotel I'd booked.
Next day I took a boat to the next beach down and it was beautiful. Very small with about eight beach shack/cafes all with a little 'village' of palm leaf huts behind them. I searched around and eventually got a room (more like a cell!) about fifty yards back from the beach. It was only 150/- a night. Two quid. I'll try to remember all the furnishings it had. Let's see. A bed. Yep that's about it.
It was a really chilled out place though. Very quiet. There were a heap of Italian travellers there and they were really nice. Not only that they had a CD player and played stuff like Pink Floyd all the time. There was a communal verandah with pillars so I put my hammock up right outside my door and almost took root!
The days just passed doing nothing. Get up, drink tea, go swimming, lie around, go swimming, lunch, lie around, go swimming, eat again. couple of beers and bed. What a life!
One day I was floating around in lovely blue water when out of the corner of my eye I saw a dorsal fin about two feet away. Panic? There was brown water splashing everywhere! I saw just after that that it was a dolphin and there were two more on the other side of me. They kept brushing past and giving me a bump. They were there for a while and they kept presenting different bits of themselves for a stroke. I tried to hang on to one and get pulled along but he was having none of it. Then they just disappeared.
All in all I was there for seven days and was gladf to just sit without having to travel, pack, unpack, find a room. As peaceful as it was I was getting just a little bored because there really was nothing to do. So I packed up and headed a bit further north to Goa, at last!
Monday 21 January 2008
Thursday 17 January 2008
Got to share this
I was walking to the bank yesterday and I passed somewhere with high walls and broken glass on the top there was a sign which I will reproduce as it was written. I didn't have my camera with me but I'll try and get back there before I move on.
Tresspissers will be prose
cuted under rules.
By order of the Governmen
t.
I thought someone was taking the piss but it was there. Honest!
Tresspissers will be prose
cuted under rules.
By order of the Governmen
t.
I thought someone was taking the piss but it was there. Honest!
Mangalore
I only came here because it's a transport hub. I'm sick of big Indian cities. Boy was it hot! 39 degrees which, in old money, is 110. It was too hot to do anything so I went and had a huge lunch and a couple of beers and went back and watched telly in my room. This hotel had hot water too. I could get used to such luxury! So I washed everything I could think of and nearly gagged when I saw the colour of the water running off me! That night I went looking for a place given a good write up in the RG. Buggered if I could find it. I found an agent for the KSRTC (Karnataka buses) and got myself booked on the bus the next day to Gokarna which is as far north you can go without wandering into Goa. A lazy day really I sat in my room all evening watching films and girded my loins for the beaches to come.
Konakulam
Or to put it properly cone-ah-cool-um. no wonder the guy at the train ticket office looked at me like I was deranged! Anyway it was only a short hop. I phoned a hotel from my book from the station and they had a room. A rickshaw there was 12/-! Typical hotel for Indians but it was clean enough. The book said that the beach was five minutes away. I think they meant by jet! I found it in the end. 10km of beautiful beach and all that was on it was me and a crab. I got bored eventually and it was too hot (over a hundred degrees). I went back to my room, pottered around then went into town. After filling in a whole three minutes by walking round twice I went for a shave. Must have been bored if that was the highlight of the day! My old faithful flip flops were worn paper thin and it was starting to hurt walking over stones. So I treated myself to a super-duper pair of sandals for the price of 300/-. It's been like walking on air. Why on earth didn't I get some earlier? I was walking down the road and saw a shop up a lane that sold beer. Four cold bottles in my bag and I went and sat on my verandah to watch the sun set. Under the hotel was a restaurant. No one spoke English so I just said food and he brought some. It was delicious. I asked for more but not same, same. (My Indian has really came on!) He brought more and that was even better. I nearly had anothe plateful when my bill was only 20/- (25p).
Next morning was a quick(ish) breakfast and yet another train ride. During all that time there I never saw another white face, or even a dirty brown one like mine.
Next morning was a quick(ish) breakfast and yet another train ride. During all that time there I never saw another white face, or even a dirty brown one like mine.
Thursday 10 January 2008
Kannur
Another overnight journey which was a close call. I set my alarm but must have rolled on it during the night. I woke up and realised that the train had stopped. Looking at my watch it was twenty minutes after we were due to arrive. I leapt up and asked someone where we were of course he gave me the Indian name which wasted more time. I made it off the train with everything as it was moving off. Bit of a rude awakening. I dumped my pack and went looking for a hotel. First one I tried across the road had a room for 180/-, bit grotty but the bathroom was spotless, and it was quiet. I'd woken up too much so I went for a walk to get a paper and chai. Guess what I found, and Indian coffee house!
I took a rickshaw to St Angelo fort, a big Portugese ruin (there was nothing else in the book!). They were filming a movie there and they'd roped in about 40 westerners to play the British army from about 300 years ago. I knew two of them so we all sat and laughed at how pathetic the acting is in these films.
Back to my favourite place for lunch. 15/- (19p) for an all you can eat thali! I was stuffed, so I went back to my hotel for a snooze.
The only other place in the book is the beach so I had to go there. It was fairly empty but a lovely stretch of 10km sand. I sat there listening to music, (my Mp3 player is working again) until sunset then I went back and slept. Get's very tiring all this sunbathing.
And just to get you all jealous...
Cochi
The capital of Kerala. It took quite a lot of phone calls to arrange a hotel before I got there, but I'm glad it did. I found a hotel in the LP (Maple) and they quoted me 380/- a night. Bit over budget but beggars can't be choosers. When I got there I thought the rickshaw driver had taken me to the wrong place It was very smart and when they showed me the room.... It was immaculate, thick mattresses and cable TV. Oh and hot water too. I'd forgotten what that was. When he said my rate would be 330/- I decided to stay for two nights.
I was staying in the Ernakulam district and the rest of the city is spread over about five islands. I took a ferry to Fort Cochin and had a wander about. It was late and not knowing my way around I didn't see too much apart from the Chinese fishing nets. Great big wooden cantilever structures that they dip in the water and raise full of fish. There is also a little fish market behind them where you can buy fresh fish and go across to a shack that will cook them for you. There were all kinds, tuna, barracuda and another big one I didn't know as well as the usual smaller fish. Well, usual for over here. After that I went back and wasted more hot water. I went for a beer at a place in the book which was on the eighth floor it had stunning views all over the waterfront but it was a bit pricey. At about 9.15 I looked down into the street that had had been the usual pandemonium when I arrived and it was deserted. Bit of a scarey walk home that night.
Next day with the staff wondering where all their hot water was going I went looking for breakfast. I found an 'Indian coffee house' nearby. My favourite chain. Rock bottom prices and excellent food, and coffee!
That afternoon I took another ferry and armed with some maps had a walk. There isn't really that much to see. I found the oldest synagogue in Asia which wasn't very much apart from the floor. It was made of 1100 hand painted tiles with the willow pattern on them and every one was different. There was also a street full of antique (and junk) shops. One shop had a doorway which he assured me was at least three hundred years old. Beautiful carved wood and about twenty feet hich and ten wide. A bargain at 4 grand. Probably cost that to send it home. Still I bet it would be cheaper than UK prices.
Not a lot more happened. I just took the chance to feel clean for the first time in ages, sort my pack out and watch telly. What a life!
I was staying in the Ernakulam district and the rest of the city is spread over about five islands. I took a ferry to Fort Cochin and had a wander about. It was late and not knowing my way around I didn't see too much apart from the Chinese fishing nets. Great big wooden cantilever structures that they dip in the water and raise full of fish. There is also a little fish market behind them where you can buy fresh fish and go across to a shack that will cook them for you. There were all kinds, tuna, barracuda and another big one I didn't know as well as the usual smaller fish. Well, usual for over here. After that I went back and wasted more hot water. I went for a beer at a place in the book which was on the eighth floor it had stunning views all over the waterfront but it was a bit pricey. At about 9.15 I looked down into the street that had had been the usual pandemonium when I arrived and it was deserted. Bit of a scarey walk home that night.
Next day with the staff wondering where all their hot water was going I went looking for breakfast. I found an 'Indian coffee house' nearby. My favourite chain. Rock bottom prices and excellent food, and coffee!
That afternoon I took another ferry and armed with some maps had a walk. There isn't really that much to see. I found the oldest synagogue in Asia which wasn't very much apart from the floor. It was made of 1100 hand painted tiles with the willow pattern on them and every one was different. There was also a street full of antique (and junk) shops. One shop had a doorway which he assured me was at least three hundred years old. Beautiful carved wood and about twenty feet hich and ten wide. A bargain at 4 grand. Probably cost that to send it home. Still I bet it would be cheaper than UK prices.
Not a lot more happened. I just took the chance to feel clean for the first time in ages, sort my pack out and watch telly. What a life!
Saturday 5 January 2008
Quillom and Allepey
I took another quick 40 minute train hop to Quillom so I could catch the ferry the next morning. The guide books described the place that I'd booked into but I wasn't prepared for it! It was a huge old colonial mansion that is now run as the Government guest house. The ceilings must have been at least 25 feet high. There were huge doors opening onto verandahs and cool breezes blowing through. You could easily imagine the people from the days of the Raj sitting drinking G&T's and complaining about the damn heat. My room was big enough to play football in! It was very run down but they did do their best to keep everything clean (by Indian standards). The staff were amazing they asked if I wanted dinner and told me it would be at 8pm. I asked if they had beer thinking I'd get a couple in town if not and he said give me the money I go get. Off he went on his moped and came back with it and put it in the fridge. When others saw me having a beer that night he ended up going twice more!
I went for a walk around the bazaar then down round the beach. I never get tired of looking at all the colourful fruit and veg and the huge sacks of every spice you can think of, apart from sporty, baby, posh etc.
Dinner was all you could eat basic rice, chapatti and veg curries. Very simple and delicious. Breakfast was great too. Every time I sat down in the communal space they came over and gave me the remote control regardless of who else was there. Just shows what pretending to be interested in the cricket does in this country! If you think Brits are obsessed by football you should see these guys about cricket.
Next day I got the ferry. An eight hour journey up through the backwaters. It was stunning. The scenery was great, the weather goes without saying but there was a constant breeze because we were moving. It was great to watch all the other river traffic too. the kids on the riverside would all come rushing out to wave at the foreigners on the boat even though they see two a day every day. We stopped halfway for lunch. A huge veg curry and rice that just kept coming. Later we stopped for tea after about six hours. A guy came up to me and said we've met before. It was someone I met in November in Varanasi. All that time on the same little boat and we hadn't seen each other. I had a hotel booked and he was lucky enough to get in there too. That was nice to have company for a night but we were both knackered from being in the sun all day. I'd started to have those almighty sweats again on the boat so I stayed another night. I wouldn't have because there is sod all to see in Allepey unless you want to go into the backwaters. Which, although nice, you can have too much of in a few days.
The room I got (in hotel number 25) was a huge round room (like a big bay window) which had glass all around it. Because the sun shone on the room all day it got pretty hot without the fan. Guess what? There was a power cut the next day and I was sweating enough already. I found it cooler to go out in the sun.
It took a bit of doing but i managed to get myself a room booked in the next stop and headed off for the train.
I was going to upload a couple of photos from my cruise to make you all jealous but the guy caught me and went mental thinking I was planting a virus or something.
I went for a walk around the bazaar then down round the beach. I never get tired of looking at all the colourful fruit and veg and the huge sacks of every spice you can think of, apart from sporty, baby, posh etc.
Dinner was all you could eat basic rice, chapatti and veg curries. Very simple and delicious. Breakfast was great too. Every time I sat down in the communal space they came over and gave me the remote control regardless of who else was there. Just shows what pretending to be interested in the cricket does in this country! If you think Brits are obsessed by football you should see these guys about cricket.
Next day I got the ferry. An eight hour journey up through the backwaters. It was stunning. The scenery was great, the weather goes without saying but there was a constant breeze because we were moving. It was great to watch all the other river traffic too. the kids on the riverside would all come rushing out to wave at the foreigners on the boat even though they see two a day every day. We stopped halfway for lunch. A huge veg curry and rice that just kept coming. Later we stopped for tea after about six hours. A guy came up to me and said we've met before. It was someone I met in November in Varanasi. All that time on the same little boat and we hadn't seen each other. I had a hotel booked and he was lucky enough to get in there too. That was nice to have company for a night but we were both knackered from being in the sun all day. I'd started to have those almighty sweats again on the boat so I stayed another night. I wouldn't have because there is sod all to see in Allepey unless you want to go into the backwaters. Which, although nice, you can have too much of in a few days.
The room I got (in hotel number 25) was a huge round room (like a big bay window) which had glass all around it. Because the sun shone on the room all day it got pretty hot without the fan. Guess what? There was a power cut the next day and I was sweating enough already. I found it cooler to go out in the sun.
It took a bit of doing but i managed to get myself a room booked in the next stop and headed off for the train.
I was going to upload a couple of photos from my cruise to make you all jealous but the guy caught me and went mental thinking I was planting a virus or something.
In a new place so here it is
I've got to post this. I was walking back to the hotel in Quillom and I passed a shop selling nothing but wellies. As usual the owner was there with "You come look Sir, you buy?"
I said, laughing. "What on earth do I want wellies for?"
Quick as a flash he said. "To keep your feet dry Sir"
Can't argue with that can you?
Varkala
A quick rickshaw ride then 40 minutes on the train to beach hop here. We didn't have reservations but a hotel let us leave our packs to go look. Talk about inflated prices for New Year. Anyway we all found different hotels mine being 700/-. On getting out of the rickshaw having collected our packs a bloke asked me if i wanted a room for 300/-. we all had a quick look and I jumped at it, clean and tidy looking onto the beach. The others had already paid deposits or for a night so they would have lost money.
Varkala is basicaly a clifftop with loads of shack type restaurants and shops seling the usual tourist crap. Then if you go down steep steps you come to a very nice beach. The weather was beautiful and it was very laid back. New Years Eve was a real party, everywhere was pumping out loud music and the atmosphere was great. I got to bed about 4am and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Just as well because later on the first I started really sweating and shivering and felt like poo. I tossed and turned all night and was just as bad in the morning. The hotel staff were great. They got me a doctor who said it was like malaria but not (I have to watch out now for certain syptoms and act quick) then he gave me a list of medicines. You can buy anything over the counter here you don't need a prescription. The staff went and got my stuff and they also went to the cafe along the road and came back with soup. They did this for two days,constantly making sure I was OK. It just went all of a sudden although I keep bursting into incredible sweats. Apart from that I feel fine now.
It was a bit of a low point and talking to other travellers they have been the same when ill. Do I go home, what am i doing here etc. However I got on the road again for a short hop and it brightened me up totally just to be moving again.
Varkala is basicaly a clifftop with loads of shack type restaurants and shops seling the usual tourist crap. Then if you go down steep steps you come to a very nice beach. The weather was beautiful and it was very laid back. New Years Eve was a real party, everywhere was pumping out loud music and the atmosphere was great. I got to bed about 4am and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Just as well because later on the first I started really sweating and shivering and felt like poo. I tossed and turned all night and was just as bad in the morning. The hotel staff were great. They got me a doctor who said it was like malaria but not (I have to watch out now for certain syptoms and act quick) then he gave me a list of medicines. You can buy anything over the counter here you don't need a prescription. The staff went and got my stuff and they also went to the cafe along the road and came back with soup. They did this for two days,constantly making sure I was OK. It just went all of a sudden although I keep bursting into incredible sweats. Apart from that I feel fine now.
It was a bit of a low point and talking to other travellers they have been the same when ill. Do I go home, what am i doing here etc. However I got on the road again for a short hop and it brightened me up totally just to be moving again.
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