The morning that I made the last post I wasn't feeling 100%. A short while afterwards I felt rotten. I thought I'd maybe dehydrated a bit even though I drink about three litres plus of water and tea a day. Seven litre bottles of water later I felt a bit better. I still had no strength and couldn't be bothered. So I drank three more litres and actually had to go to the loo. I think the constant 100 degree plus just got to me. I'd met two young lads from Dundee with a London girl tagging along and they were great fun. We sat at night and played cards and had a good laugh. I felt better when they said that they (at 20) were flagging in the heat. It was bad ebnough for me to cancel my travel arrangements and spend another day in Jodhpur.
The bus to Agra was an experience. It was a 2x2. Which was new to me! It' a high single decker with reclining seats (2x2) but above the seats are platforms double bed width. I couldn't get one of those by booking late. Apparently it's just a random process of who is in which bed. You could be next to anyone. That's India! There was one bed with seven Indians in it. That's typical though. If you see Westerners in a rickshaw there will be two or three. If they're Indian there will be nine or ten.
Agra and the Taj Mahal. To be honest I wasn't all that impressed. For a start it's a rip off at 750 Rs entrance fee. Thats 9.25. It's a marble building. It's got bugger all inside it and it takes about half an hour to look at everything. Watching the guy cutting the grass with a pair of oxen pulling the mower took five minutes of that. I've been in Jainist temples with every marble surface delicately carved - that's impressive. So I was glad that I'd decided to take the hit with a huge journey and not be staying there.
I'm now in Varanassi which is the top right of India compared to the top left where I've been since arrival. This is the holiest Indian Hindu city. It's on the river Ganges (which I can spit in from my hotel room window! And I have!) It's famous for its Ghats. These are steps on the river bank that let you walk down and into the river. They use the river for everything but the most obvious thing is the death and cremation. It is thought that if you die in this city you are absolved of all sins etc etc. So they come here to die. Then, within 24 hours the body is taken to one of two burning ghats and cremated. Right there, very little fuss or bother. Woman aren't allowed (because they cry too much an old man told me!). First they wash the body in the river. It's sewn up in muslin and on a bamboo stretcher. They build a wooden pyre about two feet high. Put the body on it a bit more wood then get a flame from the sacred fire and light it. This afternoon I counted 23 on the go at once and as I left, in the 5 minutes it took me to walk up to the main street four more bodies came passed. (Being carried I hasten to add - not by themselves!) You always seem to see the feet sticking out and every so often (actually it seems quite common) the leg burns through and the lower leg falls off. A man with two sticks comes round and chucks it back in. I've also noticed that the skull burns really slowly and stays a creamy colour. I was told it takes three hours to burn everything. Toward the end the blokes keep battering something which I was later told is the chest of a man or the bum of a woman as they take the longest. It just looked like a congealed black lump. I knew that certain bodies weren't cremated, kids, pregnant woman, live ones etc. It wasn't until this afternoon I saw what happens. They take the body down and do the washing etc Then two blokes struggle down with what looked like a paving slab from the top of the ghat. They tie the body to this and plunk it on the bow of a rowing boat. Then, without any word the bloke starts rowing. The family just turned and left but I watched the boat. They got out to the middle and as the rower turned the boat an old man stood up, lifted the body's feet and let it slide in. No fuss, no bother and I don't even think he took the fag out of his gob.
The dogs are always chewing dubious black lumps but I don't even want to think about that.
Of course you don't have to see that if you don't want but everyone I've talked to agrees that there is a morbid fascination about it.
I'm feeling much better. The temp here is pleasantly in the low 80s and you don't have to hide from the sun for most of the day. I'm here for a while because the ghats are a great place to just sit and chill and my hotel is nice (and cheap). I've got an idea of my next few stops and I'm fairly sure I'll go to Darjeeling after all. I'll have to buy some warm clothes if I do. Only drawback with that is that people will think I'm wearing Vinces hand me downs!!
Going now the hotel said something about a barbeque I think!
Friday 30 November 2007
Sunday 25 November 2007
More
I didn't realise that a whole week had passed since I last wrote! Where has it gone?
Well, Udaipur was lovely, yet another mistake with accom reservations but the lady (who was Dutch) that owned the hotel got us in another place that was great. It was situated at the top end of the lake and the rooftop restaurant had a great view of the city palace, the lake palace and all around. Did all the tourist things on day one but that night an American bloke told us of what he had done. Next day we hired a rickshaw for the day 400Rs (a fiver) and went way out into the country up a huge mountain. The scenery was stunning. We ended up at a temple on the top of the mountain that you entered into a cave to the shrine.
Udaipur was OK but there wasn't more than two days worth. My next stop was Mount Abu.
It's nice to have company but I was quite glad to be back on my own doing my own thing at my own pace.
Mt Abu is a hill station. It's over a mile up and it's the type of place the British used to go to to escape the heat. It was about twenty degrees cooler too. That put it in the low eighties which was nice. In the evening when the sun went down it was bloody freezing. I had on three shirts and two pairs of trousers with a blanket round me! Mind you i kept them on too when I went to bed I'm sure I could see that mattress moving. It was a real shithouse of a room but for 100Rs (1.25) a night what do you expect? On my first morning I joined the hotels organised (easy) trek. Easy my arse. There was a Dutch couple a Latvian bloke and me and we just sweated buckets following the guide up serious mountains. The views were stunning, but it was hard work. We were told all about the wildlife we would see. We did see some bear and cub tracks and fresh evidence of bears digging but the sum total of wildlife was three butterflies and a snake! When I got back I drank three litre bottles of water, I had two pots of tea more water and coke and in the evening I was still peeing a funny colour! Told you it was hard work.
So yesterday I set off again. I got the local bus down off the mountain. Travelling on Indian buses is just pure entertainment. 20 Rs for a one hour journey! Then I had time to kill before my train. I just went for a wander and ended up chatting to some locals and drinking tea. Then I got the train to Jodhpur. There were a good bunch of Indians around me and the five hour journey flew by. The hotel collected me from the platform and my room is spotless with a proper working hot shower. (We were chatting the other day and it turned out that most of us hadn't had a shower for about five days because they never work or they are freezing or you just don't have one!) Last night I went straight to the rooftop restaurant and was enjoying sitting still. I was invited to join a group and it turned out to be the owner and his friends. I'm his best buddy now. Might be handy.
Tomorrow I take the overnight train to Agra arriving 6am to see the Taj Mahal and then I leave that night at 9pm overnight to Varanassi where everyone tells me is THE place. I need to stop for a while as the constant movement wears you out.
Off to see the huge fort behind me. Bye!
Well, Udaipur was lovely, yet another mistake with accom reservations but the lady (who was Dutch) that owned the hotel got us in another place that was great. It was situated at the top end of the lake and the rooftop restaurant had a great view of the city palace, the lake palace and all around. Did all the tourist things on day one but that night an American bloke told us of what he had done. Next day we hired a rickshaw for the day 400Rs (a fiver) and went way out into the country up a huge mountain. The scenery was stunning. We ended up at a temple on the top of the mountain that you entered into a cave to the shrine.
Udaipur was OK but there wasn't more than two days worth. My next stop was Mount Abu.
It's nice to have company but I was quite glad to be back on my own doing my own thing at my own pace.
Mt Abu is a hill station. It's over a mile up and it's the type of place the British used to go to to escape the heat. It was about twenty degrees cooler too. That put it in the low eighties which was nice. In the evening when the sun went down it was bloody freezing. I had on three shirts and two pairs of trousers with a blanket round me! Mind you i kept them on too when I went to bed I'm sure I could see that mattress moving. It was a real shithouse of a room but for 100Rs (1.25) a night what do you expect? On my first morning I joined the hotels organised (easy) trek. Easy my arse. There was a Dutch couple a Latvian bloke and me and we just sweated buckets following the guide up serious mountains. The views were stunning, but it was hard work. We were told all about the wildlife we would see. We did see some bear and cub tracks and fresh evidence of bears digging but the sum total of wildlife was three butterflies and a snake! When I got back I drank three litre bottles of water, I had two pots of tea more water and coke and in the evening I was still peeing a funny colour! Told you it was hard work.
So yesterday I set off again. I got the local bus down off the mountain. Travelling on Indian buses is just pure entertainment. 20 Rs for a one hour journey! Then I had time to kill before my train. I just went for a wander and ended up chatting to some locals and drinking tea. Then I got the train to Jodhpur. There were a good bunch of Indians around me and the five hour journey flew by. The hotel collected me from the platform and my room is spotless with a proper working hot shower. (We were chatting the other day and it turned out that most of us hadn't had a shower for about five days because they never work or they are freezing or you just don't have one!) Last night I went straight to the rooftop restaurant and was enjoying sitting still. I was invited to join a group and it turned out to be the owner and his friends. I'm his best buddy now. Might be handy.
Tomorrow I take the overnight train to Agra arriving 6am to see the Taj Mahal and then I leave that night at 9pm overnight to Varanassi where everyone tells me is THE place. I need to stop for a while as the constant movement wears you out.
Off to see the huge fort behind me. Bye!
Sunday 18 November 2007
Tigers!
Arrived in Sawai Madhopur and got taken to the hotel that was booked. It looked like a Thai prison. Beating a hasty retreat the three of us got taken to another hotel in the Rough Guide where we got completely ripped off. The next day we went on the safari but no tigers. We saw loads of different kinds of deer, wild boar, water buffalo, peacocks, monkeys and a kingfisher. It was good but disappointing. when we got back to the hotel he asked if we saw any tigers. When we said no he said well be out of your rooms in half an hour! He did arrange somewhere else for us and it was brilliant and half the price. They only had four rooms and two en-suite tents, yes tents on the roof. The staff were great and the manager managed at midnight to get seats on a morning safari. We were driving down the road and the guide said 'Tiger". Then another one popped out of a bush then another. They sauntered up the road for about three minutes with us leap frogging to keep them in sight about thirty yards ahead. Then they turned into a space at the side of the road and we drew up - they'd completely vanished. Still at least we got to see tigers and we were one of two safaris out of fifteen that did.
They day got steadily worse from then on. At the station the board said the train was late by an hour. Eventually it turned up four hours late, copuldn't find our seats on a packed train. Every train in India is packed. Couldn't find the ticket inspector to find out which seats we all had etc etc. Eventually we all got our bunks but because there are no windows on upper bunks no one wanted to sleep in case we missed our station. Got there in the end (Ajmer)at 2am five hours late. Eventually got a rickshaw for four people four rucksacks and various day bags. Hanging on to the side of it in the pitch dark wearing next to nothing going fifteen kms over a mountain is an experience I'd rather not have again.
Pushkar is great. It's very, very hot though. At ten this morning it was 36.5 degrees. It's now 1pm and everyone is hiding indoors at least the tourists are the natives are all wandering about. This is a very holy city and this is the holiest time. It's built round a lake and the lake is used for ceremonial bathing etc. It's a nice cool stroll around it and quite something to see.
When you get slightly out of town you come to the edge of the Thar desert which is where the camel fair is held. I knew it would be bust but yeterday i was stood in an area of land with over ten thousand camels around me. This is the biggest livestock market in the world. the farmers who arrive with a camel and a mat to sleep on have nothing. Over the last couple of years they have realised that the tourists now mostly carry digital cameras. So they stand there in their turbans and dhotis asking for picture. When you're done and turn your camera around to show them, there's about twenty of them trying to look then they form an orderly queue and wait therir turn. I've taken hundreds of those photos and deleted them back at the hotel! I'm going back to the camel fair later todayfor sunset when it should be a lot cooler. Talking to people yesterday we kept being told about a restaurant. It was packed, with a cheap good buffet style meal. They had 'gypsy' dancers there and it was a scream with all the tourists trying to do the same dancing. The finale was a kid of about ten doing a fire dance/eating/blowing thing.
Leaving for Udaipur tomorrow on the 6am train. Accom is booked, train is booked, taxi to the station is booked, so fingers crossed.
They day got steadily worse from then on. At the station the board said the train was late by an hour. Eventually it turned up four hours late, copuldn't find our seats on a packed train. Every train in India is packed. Couldn't find the ticket inspector to find out which seats we all had etc etc. Eventually we all got our bunks but because there are no windows on upper bunks no one wanted to sleep in case we missed our station. Got there in the end (Ajmer)at 2am five hours late. Eventually got a rickshaw for four people four rucksacks and various day bags. Hanging on to the side of it in the pitch dark wearing next to nothing going fifteen kms over a mountain is an experience I'd rather not have again.
Pushkar is great. It's very, very hot though. At ten this morning it was 36.5 degrees. It's now 1pm and everyone is hiding indoors at least the tourists are the natives are all wandering about. This is a very holy city and this is the holiest time. It's built round a lake and the lake is used for ceremonial bathing etc. It's a nice cool stroll around it and quite something to see.
When you get slightly out of town you come to the edge of the Thar desert which is where the camel fair is held. I knew it would be bust but yeterday i was stood in an area of land with over ten thousand camels around me. This is the biggest livestock market in the world. the farmers who arrive with a camel and a mat to sleep on have nothing. Over the last couple of years they have realised that the tourists now mostly carry digital cameras. So they stand there in their turbans and dhotis asking for picture. When you're done and turn your camera around to show them, there's about twenty of them trying to look then they form an orderly queue and wait therir turn. I've taken hundreds of those photos and deleted them back at the hotel! I'm going back to the camel fair later todayfor sunset when it should be a lot cooler. Talking to people yesterday we kept being told about a restaurant. It was packed, with a cheap good buffet style meal. They had 'gypsy' dancers there and it was a scream with all the tourists trying to do the same dancing. The finale was a kid of about ten doing a fire dance/eating/blowing thing.
Leaving for Udaipur tomorrow on the 6am train. Accom is booked, train is booked, taxi to the station is booked, so fingers crossed.
Wednesday 14 November 2007
Jaipur
Well I went to the border ceremony (Pakistan/India) . Whoever thought up that ceremony had to be pissed and on drugs at the same time. Even the people around me were stumped. I asked how we could explain that to people back home and the reply was that we couldn't even explain it to each other and we'd all just witnessed it!
Still, it was 26 km each way and I paid 200/- so that was 2.50 for the round trip!
I took the over night train from Amritsar to here in Jaipur, Rhajistan. That was an experience! It was limited choice either unreserved 2nd class or sleeper class. For a 19 hour journey I splashed out and went sleeper. For the 800+km journey I was a little over 3 pounds. I slept fairly well but the goat at the other end of the carriage kept bleating and waking me up!
It's the way that the Indians travel and really gets you into the spirit of the country. You get used to being stared at very quickly, but the friendly spirit and the camaderie of your little temporary community is an experience to remember. everyone is so nice, including you in everything and everyone shook hands when we arrived and said goodbye.
so I arrived in Jaipur with no hotel reservation. I went to the hotel that everyone talks about and gave them my best 'I've just been on a train for twenty hours - give me a bloody room' look. And they did. This place is the nadir of budget accom in India. Spotless, cheap, friendly and with a rooftop cafe that's cool and peaceful. I could really stay here for ages ( but I'm leaving in an hour!). The past couple of nights have been quite a party. We discovered an off license around the corner and the hotel said we could bring stuff in. So we have had a good time. A fair mix of Ozzies, Kiwis, Danes, Yanks, Brits and Germans. I spent yesterday on an auto rickshaw tour of the sights with an american girl. (A lawyer, along with the other lawyer, the doctor, the shepherd and the financial analyst that were at the table last night).
We left at 10 am and got back just after five. We some pretty amazing things and were always met by the driver immediately and the whole day cost us 300/- which is 3.75!
Moving on today to Rathambore, only two and a half hours, which is where the tiger reserve is. Hope I get some photos for Kirsty! In company with the American for the next few days then I think everyone that I have met so far is going to Pushkar for the camel fair on Fri/Sat. So that should be a blast. Pushkar is dry but we're all stocking up so we should have quite a party.
A bit rushed but hey ho thats the travelling life! Will post more as the opportunity arises.
Still, it was 26 km each way and I paid 200/- so that was 2.50 for the round trip!
I took the over night train from Amritsar to here in Jaipur, Rhajistan. That was an experience! It was limited choice either unreserved 2nd class or sleeper class. For a 19 hour journey I splashed out and went sleeper. For the 800+km journey I was a little over 3 pounds. I slept fairly well but the goat at the other end of the carriage kept bleating and waking me up!
It's the way that the Indians travel and really gets you into the spirit of the country. You get used to being stared at very quickly, but the friendly spirit and the camaderie of your little temporary community is an experience to remember. everyone is so nice, including you in everything and everyone shook hands when we arrived and said goodbye.
so I arrived in Jaipur with no hotel reservation. I went to the hotel that everyone talks about and gave them my best 'I've just been on a train for twenty hours - give me a bloody room' look. And they did. This place is the nadir of budget accom in India. Spotless, cheap, friendly and with a rooftop cafe that's cool and peaceful. I could really stay here for ages ( but I'm leaving in an hour!). The past couple of nights have been quite a party. We discovered an off license around the corner and the hotel said we could bring stuff in. So we have had a good time. A fair mix of Ozzies, Kiwis, Danes, Yanks, Brits and Germans. I spent yesterday on an auto rickshaw tour of the sights with an american girl. (A lawyer, along with the other lawyer, the doctor, the shepherd and the financial analyst that were at the table last night).
We left at 10 am and got back just after five. We some pretty amazing things and were always met by the driver immediately and the whole day cost us 300/- which is 3.75!
Moving on today to Rathambore, only two and a half hours, which is where the tiger reserve is. Hope I get some photos for Kirsty! In company with the American for the next few days then I think everyone that I have met so far is going to Pushkar for the camel fair on Fri/Sat. So that should be a blast. Pushkar is dry but we're all stocking up so we should have quite a party.
A bit rushed but hey ho thats the travelling life! Will post more as the opportunity arises.
Friday 9 November 2007
continued (again) 80 Rs = 1pound
I'd like to go one whole day here without a power cut.
Last night there was me, a German bloke, a Dutch girl. an Englishman and a Spanish couple who have all met seperately in Delhi and happened to be staying in this very hotel. So we had a very nice dinner with a lot of tips being passed around.
The train. Well the seats are like aircraft type layout. about two minutes after we left the steward came round with free papers. Then a pot of tea and tray of biscuits and sweets for everyone. Then lunch, small but hot and tasty (spicy too). Then tea. Later we had fruit juice then even later - tea! All this in an equivelant journey from London to Edinburgh a bargain at 6 quid!
When I arrived at the station I followed the advice of the rough guide and took a cycle rickshaw. I felt sorry for the poor bugger struggling to pedal my weight + rucksack through the traffic, then we had to go up a hill so steep I had to get out and walk. When we got here and I asked how much he wanted he said 10Rs.
I was up this morning at 5.30 to go to the Golden temple for sunrise. I flagged down what I thought in the dark was an autorickshaw but was actually one of the longer ones. I was, hand on heart, about the twelfth pasenger and had to sit on someones knee. After that somebody else got on. For twenty minutes he drove like a madman through the traffic and had the gall to charge me 5Rs!
The Golden temple is just breathtaking, especially with the sunrise glinting off the 150kg of gold that covers it. There is a 'langer' there which is a communal kitchen. I had a wander round and watched them cooking in pots that are bigger than hot tubs. When I was watching some of the hundreds of people making chapatis they motioned me to join in. None of them spoke English but it was all smiles and nods and they took great delight in taking the piss out of my feeble efforts to cock up one whilst they made four. I could have done that for ages but the old joints aren't used to sitting cross legged for so long.
I went in for my breakfast and sat in a long row on the floor with everyone and ate my dhall, rice, chapatti and drunk my chai. I think it was a draw as to how much went in my mouth, on my clothes, on the floor, and over the bloke next to me!
We were talking about going there tonight to see what is supposed to be the best fireworks ever, but the news last night said they were expecting 500,000 people so we'll see. After all that's a hell of a queue for free food.
I think I've overbooked here as there isn't that much to see. So I'm going to look now about getting south into Rhajistan earlier. Although I am enjoying it being cooler here (its only about 80).
Will keep you posted.
Last night there was me, a German bloke, a Dutch girl. an Englishman and a Spanish couple who have all met seperately in Delhi and happened to be staying in this very hotel. So we had a very nice dinner with a lot of tips being passed around.
The train. Well the seats are like aircraft type layout. about two minutes after we left the steward came round with free papers. Then a pot of tea and tray of biscuits and sweets for everyone. Then lunch, small but hot and tasty (spicy too). Then tea. Later we had fruit juice then even later - tea! All this in an equivelant journey from London to Edinburgh a bargain at 6 quid!
When I arrived at the station I followed the advice of the rough guide and took a cycle rickshaw. I felt sorry for the poor bugger struggling to pedal my weight + rucksack through the traffic, then we had to go up a hill so steep I had to get out and walk. When we got here and I asked how much he wanted he said 10Rs.
I was up this morning at 5.30 to go to the Golden temple for sunrise. I flagged down what I thought in the dark was an autorickshaw but was actually one of the longer ones. I was, hand on heart, about the twelfth pasenger and had to sit on someones knee. After that somebody else got on. For twenty minutes he drove like a madman through the traffic and had the gall to charge me 5Rs!
The Golden temple is just breathtaking, especially with the sunrise glinting off the 150kg of gold that covers it. There is a 'langer' there which is a communal kitchen. I had a wander round and watched them cooking in pots that are bigger than hot tubs. When I was watching some of the hundreds of people making chapatis they motioned me to join in. None of them spoke English but it was all smiles and nods and they took great delight in taking the piss out of my feeble efforts to cock up one whilst they made four. I could have done that for ages but the old joints aren't used to sitting cross legged for so long.
I went in for my breakfast and sat in a long row on the floor with everyone and ate my dhall, rice, chapatti and drunk my chai. I think it was a draw as to how much went in my mouth, on my clothes, on the floor, and over the bloke next to me!
We were talking about going there tonight to see what is supposed to be the best fireworks ever, but the news last night said they were expecting 500,000 people so we'll see. After all that's a hell of a queue for free food.
I think I've overbooked here as there isn't that much to see. So I'm going to look now about getting south into Rhajistan earlier. Although I am enjoying it being cooler here (its only about 80).
Will keep you posted.
Thursday 8 November 2007
Amritsar now
This computer is playing up a bit but at least, unlike the last one, it's not ssssssssssssssssssssticking.
Where do I start? I've wandered all over Delhi and to tell the truth I'm glad to be away from it. It's just too full on. I went to see the Red Fort in the old quarter yesterday. It's HUGE and - er - red! Quite a sight when you think how long ago they built it.
After that I went to see the largest mosque in Asia which starts with a J. It can hold 25000 people prostrate praying at one time. There were only three there yesterday it must have been lunch time. So with that in mind and armed with my rough guide and a daft hat to keep the sun off my daft haircut (No 1 and a shave - 44p) I found a resteraunt I'd seen on the telly and is in the book. Because of the heat I wasn't that hungry so I ordered a half portion of both Chicken tikka and dahl with a nan bread. It was quite simply the best indian food I've ever had. That forced me to order thre shish kebabs with massala and roti. I did struggle towards the end but it was well worth it for the excellent food and the 2 pound 40 it cost!
I went for a wander after that through some of the busiest streets I've ever ben in. And you must bear in mind I've been in a few! I found the street with chickens. That was it, a whole street and every shop sold some kind of live chicken. I also found the square with the shops that all sold car parts, including reconditioned brake shoes. I asked around but no-one had a turbo charger for a Pajero. eventually I got on a bus and had to sit next to a goat! Right in the middle of town.
Early night last night because Mission Impossible 3 was on and I had to get up early for my train.
Like a good lad I was up and out of my hotel at 6 for a 7.20 train. I thought I would walk there because it would be quiet at that time of day. WRONG! It was complete bedlam.
I got on the train and it was one of the weirdest journey's I've been on. My friends want to go for dinner so I'll finish this tomorrow, because there's heaps more.
Where do I start? I've wandered all over Delhi and to tell the truth I'm glad to be away from it. It's just too full on. I went to see the Red Fort in the old quarter yesterday. It's HUGE and - er - red! Quite a sight when you think how long ago they built it.
After that I went to see the largest mosque in Asia which starts with a J. It can hold 25000 people prostrate praying at one time. There were only three there yesterday it must have been lunch time. So with that in mind and armed with my rough guide and a daft hat to keep the sun off my daft haircut (No 1 and a shave - 44p) I found a resteraunt I'd seen on the telly and is in the book. Because of the heat I wasn't that hungry so I ordered a half portion of both Chicken tikka and dahl with a nan bread. It was quite simply the best indian food I've ever had. That forced me to order thre shish kebabs with massala and roti. I did struggle towards the end but it was well worth it for the excellent food and the 2 pound 40 it cost!
I went for a wander after that through some of the busiest streets I've ever ben in. And you must bear in mind I've been in a few! I found the street with chickens. That was it, a whole street and every shop sold some kind of live chicken. I also found the square with the shops that all sold car parts, including reconditioned brake shoes. I asked around but no-one had a turbo charger for a Pajero. eventually I got on a bus and had to sit next to a goat! Right in the middle of town.
Early night last night because Mission Impossible 3 was on and I had to get up early for my train.
Like a good lad I was up and out of my hotel at 6 for a 7.20 train. I thought I would walk there because it would be quiet at that time of day. WRONG! It was complete bedlam.
I got on the train and it was one of the weirdest journey's I've been on. My friends want to go for dinner so I'll finish this tomorrow, because there's heaps more.
Tuesday 6 November 2007
Delhi
Here I am at last in Delhi. I arrived at 0330 yesterday morning. Bang on time. unfortunately my luggage didn't arrive until 1330 today. That meant I had the same pair of underpants on for three days. I tried turning them inside out but the button was in a strategic place and rubbed a bit!
My hotel is an absolute shithole. It's dirty, overpriced and very hot, and I'm on the fifth floor with no lift.
Delhi is a mad place! You tend to forget over the years what this country is really like on a day to day basis. Absolutely mental!!
But I can honestly say with my hand on my heart I'm completely and truly happy. I love this country. I'm sweating like a pig until I acclimatise, I'm drinking about three litres of water a day, eating like there's no tomorow and avoiding wandering cows.
The drive in from the airport was an eyeopener. Pitch dark and we were doing over 70 down the wrong side of a dual carriageway. We narrowly missed a bullock pulling a cart coming towards us. That driver earned his 3 quid for that 12 mile drive. The rickshaw drivers aren't much better. You keep hearing people screaming then you realise that it was you!
Last night and yesterday I've met loads of people. There were about 15 of us shared a table and we ordered almost all of the menu and picked at bits. It was delicious. Same with the chicken I bought in the street that was like eating a nuclear warhead!
Good thing is some people are going to my next destination so it's not only company but help with taxi fares etc when we go to the Waga/ Pakistan border ceremony.
Financial report. With the length of time I've been here = 37 hours. I've bought a set of clothes, (shirt and trousers), a new bag because my zip broke, 12 miles from the airport, three other taxis around Delhi, breakfast, lunch, snack and dinner yesterday, breakfast and snack today, heaps of beer (of course), a book, toothbrush, mosquito cream, coffees, washing powder, paid for phone calls and this time on line AND about half an hour ago I broke into my second 20 quid!
That's about it I'm going to change my shoes and go out for beer and food. Don't know what to have tonight there's so much choice.
Tune in soon for more!!!
My hotel is an absolute shithole. It's dirty, overpriced and very hot, and I'm on the fifth floor with no lift.
Delhi is a mad place! You tend to forget over the years what this country is really like on a day to day basis. Absolutely mental!!
But I can honestly say with my hand on my heart I'm completely and truly happy. I love this country. I'm sweating like a pig until I acclimatise, I'm drinking about three litres of water a day, eating like there's no tomorow and avoiding wandering cows.
The drive in from the airport was an eyeopener. Pitch dark and we were doing over 70 down the wrong side of a dual carriageway. We narrowly missed a bullock pulling a cart coming towards us. That driver earned his 3 quid for that 12 mile drive. The rickshaw drivers aren't much better. You keep hearing people screaming then you realise that it was you!
Last night and yesterday I've met loads of people. There were about 15 of us shared a table and we ordered almost all of the menu and picked at bits. It was delicious. Same with the chicken I bought in the street that was like eating a nuclear warhead!
Good thing is some people are going to my next destination so it's not only company but help with taxi fares etc when we go to the Waga/ Pakistan border ceremony.
Financial report. With the length of time I've been here = 37 hours. I've bought a set of clothes, (shirt and trousers), a new bag because my zip broke, 12 miles from the airport, three other taxis around Delhi, breakfast, lunch, snack and dinner yesterday, breakfast and snack today, heaps of beer (of course), a book, toothbrush, mosquito cream, coffees, washing powder, paid for phone calls and this time on line AND about half an hour ago I broke into my second 20 quid!
That's about it I'm going to change my shoes and go out for beer and food. Don't know what to have tonight there's so much choice.
Tune in soon for more!!!
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