continued (again) 80 Rs = 1pound

I'd like to go one whole day here without a power cut.

Last night there was me, a German bloke, a Dutch girl. an Englishman and a Spanish couple who have all met seperately in Delhi and happened to be staying in this very hotel. So we had a very nice dinner with a lot of tips being passed around.

The train. Well the seats are like aircraft type layout. about two minutes after we left the steward came round with free papers. Then a pot of tea and tray of biscuits and sweets for everyone. Then lunch, small but hot and tasty (spicy too). Then tea. Later we had fruit juice then even later - tea! All this in an equivelant journey from London to Edinburgh a bargain at 6 quid!

When I arrived at the station I followed the advice of the rough guide and took a cycle rickshaw. I felt sorry for the poor bugger struggling to pedal my weight + rucksack through the traffic, then we had to go up a hill so steep I had to get out and walk. When we got here and I asked how much he wanted he said 10Rs.

I was up this morning at 5.30 to go to the Golden temple for sunrise. I flagged down what I thought in the dark was an autorickshaw but was actually one of the longer ones. I was, hand on heart, about the twelfth pasenger and had to sit on someones knee. After that somebody else got on. For twenty minutes he drove like a madman through the traffic and had the gall to charge me 5Rs!

The Golden temple is just breathtaking, especially with the sunrise glinting off the 150kg of gold that covers it. There is a 'langer' there which is a communal kitchen. I had a wander round and watched them cooking in pots that are bigger than hot tubs. When I was watching some of the hundreds of people making chapatis they motioned me to join in. None of them spoke English but it was all smiles and nods and they took great delight in taking the piss out of my feeble efforts to cock up one whilst they made four. I could have done that for ages but the old joints aren't used to sitting cross legged for so long.

I went in for my breakfast and sat in a long row on the floor with everyone and ate my dhall, rice, chapatti and drunk my chai. I think it was a draw as to how much went in my mouth, on my clothes, on the floor, and over the bloke next to me!

We were talking about going there tonight to see what is supposed to be the best fireworks ever, but the news last night said they were expecting 500,000 people so we'll see. After all that's a hell of a queue for free food.

I think I've overbooked here as there isn't that much to see. So I'm going to look now about getting south into Rhajistan earlier. Although I am enjoying it being cooler here (its only about 80).

Will keep you posted.